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(>Pictures at the bottom!)
Tan-Tan – Agadir – across the Anti-Atlas – Iriqui-N.P. – Zagora – Ouarzazate – Zagora
We had a ‘déjà vu’ at the Ksar Tafnidilt (Tan-Tan); again strong wind from the east and not exactly the best weather forecast. Further northeast, i.e. towards Agadir, the weather and temperatures should be much more pleasant and our food and drink supplies had been used up in the meantime. Even further north, i.e. beyond Agadir, almost wintry conditions were predicted.
Once again we set our compass in the direction of Agadir and followed the advice of the manager of Ksar Tafnidilt. But already at the entrance to the Oued Aoreora, which flows in a zigzag from the high coastal plain to the sea, our jeep sank into the fine quicksand. If we already failed here, how will it be further down the Oued? Chantal was sure that we should turn back now, while I (Tom) still hoped that it might still work. In the end, we turned around and dug our way up onto the surface again using all the tricks of the sand driving (…including letting all the air out of the tyres!)
Later we crossed the Oued Aoreora, where no sand hindered our progress, but the wind presented us with a different problem in the valley, as it blew through it from all sides. So we scrambled up onto the next flat area again and set up for the night in a flat area next to a well. There the wind blew from only one direction.
To avoid having to travel the same route again, we decided to drive inland as far as Sidi Ifni. In Sidi Ifni, we wanted to set up camp near the centre this time, so that the footpath to the city centre would be a little closer. But all these places were very well occupied and the motorhomes were lined up in a row, making it look more like a car park than a campsite. No, we definitely didn’t want to be in such a tight spot. In addition, I (Tom) wanted to have a certain amount of space for maintenance work on the car, as the desert kilometres behind us had once again left certain traces on our vehicle. We found the place we wanted in the neighbouring village and better spatial possibilities for our plans.
Once again we left the coastal strip and roamed the hinterland in the direction of Tiznit. Of course, a little sightseeing there was a must, as this place played a certain role in Moroccan history. After the urban hustle and bustle, we headed for the Atlantic again, where we set up our camp directly above the sea. This time the military had no objection to our presence and after photographing our passports, they wished us a restful night with the sound of the sea.
The errands in Agadir were done relatively quickly and we were already planning our onward journey. Since wintry conditions were still forecast in northern Morocco, we planned a third trip to the desert. Erg Chegaga and Iriqui National Park, but also Zagora, were at the top of our list. The route in an easterly direction was soon programmed on our tablet and in Foum Zguid we would definitely decide whether to go to the desert or further through the mountains to Zagora. This time we really tried to drive from west to east in a straight line and were curious to see what surprises this route would bring us.
The choice of route was not always easy, as the river valleys were not exactly in our desired direction and certain mountain crossings were more suitable for donkeys than for cars. Nevertheless, we came to some places where tourists probably did not appear too often. More and more often we could see almond trees in bloom, and the fields in the valley floors shone in a lush green; wonderful splashes of colour in this grey-brown landscape.
At some point we reached a crossing where, after several kilometres through a river bed and the actual ascent, there was almost no turning back. Somehow, our jeep still fit through everywhere and at the washouts, we could often see the valley floor, which lay deep below us. On the other side, it went down almost as we had driven up. At the first village, the passage was also very narrow and a larger vehicle would definitely have had to make the return journey. We were both very happy that this mountain passage went without incident and that our jeep did its job brilliantly.
In Foum Zguid, the decision was soon made: Chantal did not want to cross a mountain similar to the one we had already driven under any circumstances, so the only open alternative was the desert. After the difficult mountain routes, we would probably enjoy the sand again. Unfortunately, we chose the wrong track from Foum Zguid and bumped over hill and dale for half a day. There was no sign of soft sand far and wide. Out of sheer frustration, we finally steered cross-country to a track we knew and looked for a place to sleep north of the Pass du Cobra, where we had often stood and admired the sparkling starry sky.
Since we had never driven over the Cobra Pass from the north, it was a perfect fit and the southern slopes tempted us again. The last sandstorms had changed the familiar track considerably, and again we had to drive with great skill around the newly formed sand dunes. Lake Iriqui, which is located in the national park of the same name, lost a lot of its water in the last few weeks and deep furrows in the mud revealed to us that many before us had wanted to take the direct route through the lake. We chose the long detour north around the lake to reach the western side of the Erg Chegaga later.
Besides the many large herds of dromedaries, we were almost alone in this vast area. At night it was again absolutely quiet and we could hardly get enough of the starry sky. On our onward journey, we explored some old Ksour south of the Erg Chegaga, which are located directly on the dry Drâa River, before continuing on towards M’Hamid. This onward journey was also very exhausting, as we had to cross many places with deep powdery sand and our car was finally covered in a brown dust coat.
Shortly before M’Hamid, we set up our next night’s lodging and looked forward to another restful night, far away from any noise and hustle and bustle. But it turned out differently: a rally was taking place in M’Hamid that week, where the participants had to take part in various tests, so there was no undisturbed night. With deafening noise, the engines howled far beyond midnight through the wide desert landscape, and the next morning the engine noise started again before we had our first coffee. Wow, long live freedom with lots of noise and racket!
We bypassed the new centre of M’Hamid to the south and southeast through the old Ksour and were happy that we could at least have some peace and quiet here. But far from it; the rally had also left its mark in these sleepy corners of the oasis and there were begging hands around every corner. Everyone thought we were participants in the rally and held out their hands. We were glad to have found peace and quiet on a beautiful campsite in Zagora. Besides our completely dusty clothes, the air filter of the jeep also had to be freed from sand and dust so that it could breathe clean air again.
The new weather forecast again thwarted our plans; heavy snowfall was forecast for the High Atlas and here in Zagora as well as in the Drâa Valley there was to be a heavy storm. No idea whether we will ever get to Marrakech from here. A French camper recommended a route away from the normal routes, where a 4×4 vehicle is essential. We planned this alternative and with a full tank of petrol we set off again into the mountains and our new adventure.
The mountain range of Jbel Saghro was quite a challenge and it took us three days to cross this wild mountain landscape. This mountain range also contains significant nickel-cobalt deposits, which are extracted using the simplest mining methods. Once a mine is depleted, the next one is mined and everything is left behind as it was; in some places it looks really terrible! In addition to the mines, this area is also heavily populated, i.e. everywhere you meet people who drive their herds of sheep and goats over the barren mountain slopes in these high plateaus. And to our annoyance, there were more than enough children begging. They often ran several hundred metres to the edge of the road to wave at us and ask something. Unfortunately, a proper conversation was not possible because we did not speak their language and they could only say ‘donne moi…’
Nevertheless, we really liked this mountain world with its steep rock towers and slopes. The track was not too demanding in terms of getting ahead and if you didn’t miss the way, there was no danger of falling. After two days we reached N’kob via the Tizi-N’Tazazert (pass), where we filled up our diesel tank before heading into the next mountain crossing. This second track was a day trip and actually possible with almost any vehicle. We wondered why the French couple turned back here with their Renault and skipped this experience.
In the late afternoon we reached the Dades Valley and followed it to the Mansour Ed Dahbi reservoir, where we found a wonderful place right on the lake. Unfortunately, a strong fall wind from the High Atlas set in in the evening and it was clear to us that there was a lot of moisture north of the Atlas again. The following day, the pass to Marrakech was closed due to heavy snowfall.
The closures are usually only ordered when there is snow or snow-covered roads and are usually lifted again shortly afterwards. But we didn’t want to stay in Ouarzazate and continued our journey in a southerly direction. Why not follow the many ksour and kasbahs to Zagora? According to our travel guide, it should be a wonderful stretch along the Oued Drâas, where, in addition to the ancient buildings, one oasis follows the next.
Unfortunately, we were slightly disappointed by what we saw. Perhaps it was because we followed the new road. Much has fallen into disrepair; in addition to the many old buildings, more and more gardens and fields are being abandoned. There was no shortage of water at the time, as the September rains and the melting of the snow in the Atlas provided enough water.
South of Agdz, we visited rock engravings in a side valley near Tinsouline that were made around 4,000-6,000 years ago. According to current research, the Sahara was green at that time, which is actually confirmed by the drawings on the boulders. The security guard present tried to explain the images to us, which was somewhat unsuccessful due to the language barrier.
It was only a few kilometres to Zagora, where we drove up to the laughing groundsman for the third time. Maybe we really won’t make it out of southern Morocco! 😉
Explanations:
Ksar / Ksur: Was a kind of refuge for the population in rural areas and also served as a storage place for food and seeds from enemy attacks.
Kasbah / Kasbahs: Fortress-like castle in urban areas where the inhabitants lived within the walls.
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