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From Mount Kosciuszko to the incubator
The return journey eastwards came at just the right time. Warm air was pushing southwards from the north, and our return to Kosciuszko Alpine National Park fitted in perfectly with our plans. It was supposed to be a little cooler in the mountains and, to our surprise, there were vacancies again at the national park campsites.
For me (Tom), it was almost like Christmas in the new year. On the last cloudless day, I was able to undertake the long hike up Mount Kosciuszko, Australia’s highest mountain. I completed the ascent via the almost road-like hiking trail to the summit in well under the estimated time, and, feeling euphoric, I decided to complete the recommended circular hiking trail. Perhaps the last few kilometres were a bit too much in the end. Totally exhausted, I reached the car park at Charlotte Pass and was glad that Chantal drove me back to the campsite.
We spent two more days in Kosciuszko-Alpine National Park and enjoyed the wonderful camping opportunities by the rivers. Despite the forecast heatwave, we had to continue westwards; a car service was scheduled in Albury. Unfortunately, we planned this service at a time when everyone wanted to have their cars serviced, so we had to wait a while. The pool at the campsite offered us only limited cooling. As soon as we got out of the water, sweat was pouring down our foreheads.
After the car service and receiving a long list of defects, we left Albury and followed the Murray River further west. The thermometer rose well above 40°C every day and even the Toyota’s air conditioning couldn’t cope with the heat; we felt as if nothing was cooling us down anymore. When the thermometer reached 46°C, we headed for a wonderful campsite in a national park and cooled off in the refreshing waters of the Murray. It was immediately clear to us that we would follow this river.
The heatwave from central Australia was set to continue in the south for several more days. Our original itinerary was adjusted due to the heat. Instead of driving into the heat, we continued to follow the Murray River so that we could cool off in the water in the evenings, whenever possible. So we followed the river, switching back and forth between New South Wales and Victoria, roaming through vast agricultural areas, state forests and nature reserves.
We were already back in South Australia (state), where the Murray turns 90° south. For us, it was a last dip in the refreshing water. From Morgan onwards, we had a long and almost monotonous stretch through the Australian breadbasket ahead of us. We covered this distance in record time, which was almost uncharacteristic for us. There was a short break at Remarkable National Park; the journeyman (Tom) was keen to explore Alligator Gorge.
We then drove through the hinterland and searched in vain for various historical sites where, according to our map, there were certain sights worth seeing. We drove many kilometres along gravel roads and tracks into deserted areas, where there was ultimately nothing to marvel at. Somewhat disappointed, we drove via Quorn to Port Augusta.
In Port Augusta, we studied the weather and heat forecasts at length. We also discussed at length whether or not we wanted to drive the 750 kilometres to Coober Pedy. According to my (Tom’s) travel guide, this place was a must-see, but on the other hand, the intense heat was a bit of a deterrent. The forecast for the next few days was around 40°C during the day and around 20°C at night. Actually, almost acceptable temperatures for the Australian summer!
We bought food for five days and filled up the petrol tank and our water reserves completely. On the same day, we set off into the Australian outback with its endless expanses. We were curious to see what makes Coober Pedy worth a visit.
Chantal and Tom/January 2026
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