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…and back in a holding pattern
After having our car serviced at Backpacker Cars in Perth, we set off northwards with renewed vigour. Although the list of faults on our Toyota was a bit longer again, we trusted the mechanic’s assurance that everything would be fine for the next 10,000 km and that the minor issues were of little consequence. We checked the weather forecasts and hoped it wouldn’t get as hot as the two-week forecast suggested.
We mostly followed the Indian Ocean coastline, making frequent detours inland. But by Australian standards, a hundred or two hundred kilometres was hardly a blip on the map. So we made our way north at a leisurely pace; one night we sought a place to sleep in the dunes; the following night we found a cosy spot somewhere inland. We would actually have found wonderful places every time; but: it wasn’t just the heat that got to us, but the ever-present bush flies and ‘march flies’ – a sort of oversized horsefly – which often left our evenings descending into chaos and swearing.
It wasn’t exactly the best time for a trip to the north, but the many motorhomes and hire vans gave us just a glimpse of what it might be like during the peak season. At the ‘Pinnacles’, we deliberately chose a later time of day, hoping for good light conditions as well as a quiet visit. But no such luck; we chugged along the park path at a snail’s pace as if it were rush hour. On the plus side, some of the rock formations were bathed in wonderful sunlight, and with a bit of patience, the tourists eventually cleared off.
That evening, we also drove to a spot hidden in the dunes that offered a wonderful view of the sea. Thanks to the wind, we had no evening pests around us. With thousands of stars and the sound of the surf, we turned in late in the evening. Throughout the night, a lot of dew and moisture settled on our car. The morning shock was certainly great; thousands of wild bees had taken over our car and were lapping up the moisture from the car and our gear. Despite the peaceful nature of the bees, the buzzing was somehow very frightening. For breakfast, we sought out a different and somewhat safer spot.
Away from the coast, I found a national park in the bushland with a special cave that can be explored during the dry season. The decision was made quickly, the tyre pressure was lowered again, and soon we were making our way along the sandy track towards the national park. Thanks to the new headlamp, the hike beneath the earth’s surface was also possible, and due to the pleasant temperatures, I (Tom) explored the cave – or rather, the underground watercourse – twice.
The next spots we visited inland turned out to be rather pointless, and Chantal laughed at me again; typical Australia. On the other hand, the area around Kalbarri once again offered plenty of tourist hotspots that you simply have to visit and see. The footpaths, ranging from long to very long, were almost always worth the effort. North-east of Kalbarri lies the Murchison River Gorge, and we were determined to go there. We were already too late in the day for hikes or even short walks. The rangers had already closed the paths at the well-known spots as it was far too hot, and the fine was clearly stated on the sign in case anyone tried to sneak through anyway. At less popular and more natural highlights, however, we could set off on a walk without restrictions, despite the heat.
Yes, it was getting warmer by the day. The long-term forecasts were probably right after all, and by midday our car’s air conditioning could no longer cool properly; 46°C outside! It was clear to us that we would now stay near the sea, and both the François Peron and Cararang peninsulas were ideal for our visit. The strong southerly wind brought some relief, and we were able to enjoy the evenings without the pesky flies. On the Cararang Peninsula, we spent the night at the westernmost point of the Australian mainland, and alongside this unique location, we once again had a mouse as a flatmate in the car. Word of our experience in Mexico had probably got round, which is why we don’t kill mice. 😊
After our peninsula adventure, we returned to the North West Coastal Highway and looked for a place to sleep in the vast bush landscape. Finding a suitable spot was no problem, but what we completely underestimated was the intense heat. The sun was already low in the sky and the thermometer still read 45°C. On top of that, the bush flies were driving us nearly mad, and it wasn’t until it was completely dark that the buzzing stopped. We spent the night sweating in the roof tent, and in the morning, after sunrise, the flies were already waiting on the outside of the mosquito net.
Once again, we checked the weather forecast and temperature readings. The figures were more than just pleasant. The thermometer was set to break the 50°C mark in the coming days, and in the far north of Western Australia, many roads were closed due to heavy monsoon rains. We also heard that in certain areas, crocodiles (Saltis) were swimming through the villages. Apparently an annual occurrence for the Aussies, but for us it was a ‘red alert’. Our decision was soon clear: we would head south again; it should be pleasantly warm on the south coast, and by the end of March it would probably be more comfortable for the journey north.
We headed back to the south coast at an incredible pace and taking a very direct route. Whilst our daily mileage was almost normal for many travellers in Australia, for us the distances we covered every single day were incredibly long. In return, we weren’t disappointed by the temperatures on the south coast. Pleasant daytime temperatures and the fresh breeze ensured we weren’t immediately swarmed by pesky flies. It was pleasant during the day, but at night it got very chilly and we had to use an extra blanket again to avoid shivering as we waited for morning.
During our brisk drive south, a previously reported problem with our Toyota became increasingly noticeable. The faulty ball joints in the steering had presumably suffered again during our off-road adventures, and on a straight road we constantly had to correct the alignment. So we decided to visit BackpackerCars in Perth again to have this problem fixed. We had to spend a few more days in the ‘waiting loop’ until our workshop appointment. We also hope that this will be the last repair and that no further faults will come to light.
On the way back from the south to Perth, we enjoyed many small and larger detours through the wild countryside outside the big city; after all, we were still in the waiting loop for our workshop appointment. And, as often happens with Tom’s choice of route – the path grew ever narrower and the undergrowth loomed in from both sides of our track. After a narrow passage, countless tiny creatures scurried across our windscreen. These little creatures actually looked quite cute and sweet. But when Chantal counted their legs, the fun was over; countless Christmas spiders (jewel spiders/Austracantha minax) were crawling across our windscreen and scurrying into the many nooks and crannies of our car. Removing all those spiders took quite some time, and the Aussies driving past watched our antics with great amazement.
Despite the animal-related adventure and the hassle with our vehicle, our stay in the Perth area offered plenty of other pleasant things in life: swimming in the sea, doing nothing and sleeping in at the bungalow. Of course, there were other things to sort out too; for example, doing the laundry and much more.
And as already mentioned, the waiting loop postponed our trip to Darwin by a month, so we’ll be able to enjoy slightly more pleasant temperatures further north, and sometime after Easter there should be fewer flies about. Hopefully!
Chantal and Tom/March 2026
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