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…from Halls Creek via Darwin back to Halls Creek
The road west of Halls Creek was officially closed. Feeling rather uncertain, we carried on anyway; it would probably be fine – the information we’d received was very contradictory. With a touch of nervousness, we continued eastwards. Up to the border between Western Australia and the Northern Territory, the route took us over many hills, and with every change of direction came a new view of the landscape stretching into the distance or down into the next valley.
From the Northern Territory border onwards, it was flat; ultra-flat and vast. The various stations – enormous cattle stations – virtually define the landscape. These estates or feedlots are sometimes as big as individual cantons here in Switzerland. Unbelievable! The stretch to Kalkarindji and on to Top Springs was simply very long and, how shall I put it; boring. In Top Springs, we wanted to drive via the Buchanan Highway through Gregory National Park and Jasper Gorge to the Victoria Highway (A1). At the roadhouse, we asked about the road conditions. The owner briefly asked about the car model and immediately said that it would be a bit of a tight squeeze in a Toyota Prado. Whilst I was filling up, the owner made a phone call and then dryly remarked that the water level at the ford on the Victoria River was 1.5 metres high and impossible to cross, unless we fancied going for a swim in the car.
Somewhat disappointed, we drove around Gregory National Park and reached the Victoria Highway far to the east of the national park. It wasn’t far to Katherine, where we were able to stock up on all sorts of food. Our wine supplies were also running low, and we wanted to buy a few bottles at the off-licence. However, the checks at the entrance were very thorough, and as we had no fixed address or reserved campsite, the policeman wouldn’t let us in at first. After a brief discussion, we were allowed to enter the shop, but only to buy one bottle of wine per person. While we were still in the shop, there was quite a commotion outside, as several Aboriginal people were also trying to enter but were being prevented from doing so by the police. Well, different regions – different rules, and we were really only able to shop on a very limited basis.
It was just a short drive to Katherine Gorge and we didn’t want to miss out on this natural spectacle. The next disappointment followed immediately at the Nitmiluk National Park information centre. The water level in the Katherine River was too high and the boat trip was severely restricted. Apart from the limited trip, the price for such a restricted experience was simply too high for us. So we headed to Edith Falls in the same national park and hoped we could stay there for a night.
We spotted the ‘No Swimming’ sign from a distance. So much for a refreshing dip in the pool below the falls; the welcome refreshment was not to be. Since the Zylon Narelle had passed through, crocodiles (salties) were said to be in the water, and a shared swim could end badly for one of the two. Even without a refreshing dip, we wanted to spend the night at the adjacent campsite. But, without a prior online booking, we had to leave the area again. We cursed this new system, which robs you of all spontaneity, and even when rangers are on site, it’s impossible to book a free pitch at short notice. Somewhat disappointed, we drove on and, to our great surprise, found a wonderful spot after Pine Creek; in stunning wilderness, and it was free.
Our expectations of Kakadu National Park were high; the name alone suggests something special. Yet even at the visitor centre to the south, we found ourselves facing closed doors. Oops; had we misread something? They were still closed – due to the season! Almost all tourist facilities throughout Kakadu National Park had been suspended; from May onwards, we could look out for crocodiles on the Alligator River again, but not now in April.
Somewhat disappointed that everything was currently closed for the season, we drove on towards Darwin. At Adelaide River, between Mary River and Djukbini National Parks, we enquired with a private operator of crocodile tours about the price and the likelihood of seeing the sought-after animals. We must commend the operator’s honesty here; following the floods and the high water level in the river, they could offer us no guarantees. The crocodiles were likely all hidden away behind the trees and would be very difficult, if not impossible, to spot. Despite their honesty, we decided against the boat tour. Spending an hour travelling up the river just to gaze at trees? No, we weren’t up for that.
In Darwin, we enjoyed the comforts of an air-conditioned bungalow; it was really hot and the humidity correspondingly high. Whilst Chantal turned her attention to various administrative tasks, I (Tom) enjoyed a day in the centre of Darwin. Although the capital of the Northern Territory cannot compete with other major cities, I appreciated its manageable size and the very modern city centre. In 1942, the Japanese reduced the city of that time to rubble; only a few old buildings survived the attack. Today, there is no trace left of that era, and so this modern city emerged. The ever-present Aboriginal people, chatting loudly everywhere in the streets and parks, once again left me with a somewhat unsettling impression.
Of course, a visit to the nearby Litchfield National Park with its countless waterfalls and swimming spots was a must. Admittedly, only one road was open and, much to my chagrin, all the ‘4×4’ tracks were closed. Instead of wallowing through the mud in the car, I (Tom) laced up my walking boots and sought out several waterfalls and swimming pools. However, the major hiking routes and connecting paths to the individual waterfalls were also closed; the floodwaters and damage caused by the cyclone to the paths were correspondingly extensive.
After Litchfield National Park, we wanted to use a parallel road to the Stuart Highway, but had to turn back there too after many kilometres; the volume and depth of the water were simply too much for our Prado! As we continued along the Stuart Highway, we discovered the Franz Weber Horse Sanctuary south of Pine Creek. Wild horses live across 450 km², i.e. horses that were once released into the wild and have been heavily hunted by farmers in modern times. Franz Weber established this sanctuary in 1987 and, at the time, we were generous donors to his conservation cause.
West of Katherine, we booked an overnight spot online in the Judbarra/Gregory National Park so that we could drive leisurely south through Jasper Gorge the following day. In the meantime, the Buchanan Highway – actually a gravel track – had been declared open with restrictions on the Northern Territory Road Service website. Both the reserved overnight spot and the reopened Buchanan Highway were, in our eyes, a complete let-down! We couldn’t really use the booked spot; everything was very unkempt and run-down! And on the Buchanan Highway, we had to turn back at the Victoria River crossing; the water was still at least a metre deep at its shallowest point and the current was extremely strong. No idea which 4×4 vehicles would have been able to make this crossing, but it was officially open. In any case, it was too much for us and our Prado, and we had to do a 180-degree turn! Well, adventures on gravel roads in the Australian outback.
Back on the Victoria Highway, we decided to drive back to Western Australia, as we still weren’t entirely sure where we wanted to sell our car. Besides, I (Tom) was still hoping that the Gibb River Road would open in the next few days. On the other hand, Purnululu National Park was opening for the season and was also already on our wish list.
From the Great Northern Highway to the national park, we had to drive 53 km through private farmland. At the first water crossing, we turned back as we didn’t know how deep it was, and I had far too much respect for the large reptiles to go and check it out first. The manager of the nearby campsite reassured us afterwards; she had never seen a crocodile in that river, even though Crocodile Gorge lies just a little way south of it.
Plucking up our courage, we drove back to the river crossing and made it through the ford without any problems. Before we could explore the national park freely, we picked up the necessary information about the park at the visitor centre after checking in. We made the most of the remaining hours of the afternoon and explored the southern part of the park. At Elephant Rock, we weren’t quite sure whether it really did resemble an elephant or whether the person who named it had let their imagination run wild. The short walk to the Cathedral, however, was wonderful; erosion had transformed the rock formations into rounded rock towers. In the northern part, we visited Echidna Chasm the following day and arrived just in time to see the sun shining through the narrow gorge shortly before midday. We returned with many new experiences and drove on to Halls Creek.
In Halls Creek, we decided to sell the car to Backpacker Cars in Sydney, as the Gibb River Road was still closed. This means we can also explore new areas that we wouldn’t otherwise have been able to experience. After a quick shopping trip to the local grocer, we were now definitely heading east. Officially, the Duncan Road was open this time, and with a great appetite for adventure, we set off on our journey to the east of Australia; many kilometres and just as many unknown things lay ahead of us!
Chantal and Tom/May 2026
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